Bead Size

[treehooker]

When brass beads are described in metric measurements, can 2, 3, and 4mm be considered small, medium, and large in terms of suitability for beadhead flies?

I mean, is a 2mm bead suitable for, say, 14 & 16 hooks; a 3mm for 10s and 12s, etc?

[Redwings1]

Here is what I use as a general guide:

1/16"....1.5mm ....20-26

5/64th" ...2.0 mm 16-20

3/32" .....2.3mm 14-18

7/64" .... 2.8mm 12-16

1/8" .....3.3mm 10-14

3/16" ...3.8mm 6-10

3/16" ....4.8mm 2-8

1/4" .....6.4mm 1/0-4

[treehooker]

Somehow, I knew you would have an answer for this one, Red.

Now, are those fractions of a millimeter going to make a material difference in fitting the bead over the hook shank?

Say I have a bead that measures exactly 3mm instead of 3.3mm...I should still be able to get that onto the shank of a #10 hook, right?

Don't you have to build up the shank with thread anyway when you use these beads?

[Redwings1]

Somehow, I knew you would have an answer for this one, Red :oops:

I forget exactly where I pulled that guide from a while back, but it is just a guide and can be 'bent' to fit your needs or current material list. With bead the issue that you will more likely have is getting the bead successfully over the barb of the hook; with cones is when you will have the issue getting around the hook shank though there are companies making 'slotted' cones now that will allow much easier use on smaller hooks.
I used to build up a big thread bump to hold the bead in place, but have come to view that as unneccesary and a waste of thread. Now I tie the fly back to front and then as I get to the bead I use the last material tied in as a plug...I give a few wraps immeadiately behind the bead as if tying in deer hair and then pull down tight. That will force some of the material under the bead acting as a stopper, then clip the material, then give it a few more wraps and finish off with a whip finish and you are good to go 8)

[treehooker]

Great tip about using the last tied-in material to secure the bead!

Man, that is what keeps me at the vise even though I suck at tying. The ingenuity of fly tiers is boundless. Only a tier could go to a garage sale, find some old lady's fur hat and think "Zonker"---no, make that "Improved Zonker" with the fringes off that gold lame dress over there for fifty cents......

Thanks for the guide. I'm not sure that tells me if those mm sizes will fit over the barb, but common sense might work here.

As for whip finishing......well, you have to because you tie professionally. Envy me, Red. No fish I've ever taken on one of the horrible flies I've tied has so much as frayed the head. Few halfhitches will do and that nasty whipfinishing tool can stay in the box.

[Redwings1]

:P HA! If you have to time to slide by Houssey Meadows in three weeks I'll give you a tasty beverage and whip crash course...have you whip finishing like a pro with a Matarelli in no time :wink:

[layoutond]

treehooker,
i used to tie my beads on the way red does, by using the material to lock the bead in place. I do something a little different now i have found it works better for me--both in tying the flies and in getting down. i put the bead on then wrap 4-8 turns of lead (size based on the size of the hook and bead) and shove it into the bead. it will center the bead around the shank of the hook and after you start your thread behind the lead, it will keep the bead from sliding around. ep